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DWTS: Latin Night at Home & Avocado-Pistachio Loaf with Lime Glaze and Cilantro Ice Cream

“From Len . . . . . . a Ten!”  That’s just how good this dazzling use of avocado turned out to be.

By now the California Avocado Commission has educated most that avocado is a fruit and not a vegetable and can be used for something other than guacamole.  While California would surely like to take credit for this wonderful produce, the avocado is actually indigenous to south-central Mexico and originated over seven millennia ago.  The avocado migrated to California in the 1870’s when Mexican trees were successfully introduced in Santa Barbara.  California now produces about ninety percent of the nation’s avocado crop with the Haas variety accounting for ninety-five percent of the total. 

The inspiration for my recipe was “Avocado Toasts,”  which turned out to be toasted bread with avocado smeared on top of it and consumed like a tartine.  Tasty but mundane.  Sous Chef was unimpressed and thought it seemed a waste of good guacamole.  So he challenged me to put my own spin on making Avocado Toasts.

My response was “Avocado-Pistachio Loaf with Lime Glaze” accompanied by Cilantro Ice Cream.  Avocado, cilantro, and pistachio form a sort of green holy trinity.  Avocado and cilantro have a harmonious layer of grassy flavors, but the cilantro’s brightness helps cut through the buttery fat of the avocado.  The pistachio is a versatile nut and provides texture against the richness of the avocado.  A bite of this version of “Avocado Toasts” first brings forward the fruity nuttiness of the pistachio, then the subtle avocado flavor starts to make its presence known, highlighted by the drizzle of lime glaze.  The Cilantro Ice Cream compliments the flavors of its mates and rouses the palate from any lethargy caused by the richness of the avocado. 

This dish satisfies your sweet tooth, with a little bit of sassiness thrown in.  Kind of like “Latin Night” on Dancing with the Stars.”  It starts out just as you would expect and the next thing you know someone has lost their shirt (hopefully Gilles Marini or Maksim – he’s usually good for several shirtless numbers a season –although Sous Chef is undoubtedly rooting for it to be one of the scantily clad female dancers).  If you are literal like Sous Chef, and must respect the toast label, then by all means toast the loaf slices.  Sous Chef grabbed his trusty cast iron skillet, cranked up the heat, tossed in a slice, and got a nice bit of crustiness for his efforts.  He proclaimed toasting the slice added further dimension and flavor to the dish.

Photo: usmagazine.com

This sweet and savory dessert is a great way to spice up your entertaining.   Pair it with a tequila-based cocktail and you might just have a Latin dance party in your dining room. 

Avocado - Pistachio Loaf with Lime Glaze adapted from Que Rica Vida recipe

1 large avocado

2 tablespoons butter (room temperature)

3/4 cup sugar

1 large egg

1/2 cup buttermilk

1 cup flour

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

3/4 cup chopped pistachios, plus a 1/4 cup for the top of the loaf

1 cup powdered sugar

2 tablespoons lime juice

Preheat the oven to 325°F.

Grease bread loaf pan (5x9) and set to the side.

Puree avocado, butter, sugar, egg and buttermilk in a food processor or Vitamix until smooth.

In a small bowl, combine flour, baking soda, salt and baking powder together, and add to the avocado mix.

Mix the flour mixture and avocado mixture together until combined.

Add in 3/4 cup of chopped pistachios to mixture and slowly mix in.

Pour mixture into the loaf pan and bake for 50 minutes.

Remove from oven and allow loaf to cool.

Once loaf is cooled, mix powdered sugar and lime juice together until smooth.Drizzle lime icing over the top of avocado loaf and sprinkle with remaining 1/4 cup of pistachios. 

Cilantro Ice Cream adapted from The Perfect Scoop by David Lebovitz

Warning:  Makes approximately 2 cups.  Double recipe for ice cream afficionados.

1 cup packed cilantro leaves

3/4 cup whole milk

3/4 cup heavy whipping cream

1/3 cup sugar

pinch of salt

2 large egg yolks

Bring about 4 cups of water to a boil in a sauce pan.  Prepare ice bath while waiting for water to boil.  Once water is boiling, blanch cilantro leaves for approximately 10 seconds, then immediately drop drained cilantro into ice bath to shock it.  Remove cilantro and squeeze very tightly to remove any excess water.

Place cilantro in Vitamix or blender.  Puree on high speed with 3/4 cup combination of milk and heavy whipping cream until the cilantro is very finely ground.

In a saucepan, warm the remaining milk and heavy cream.  In a separate bowl whisk together the eggs yolks.  Slowly pour warm milk mixture into the egg yolks, whisking constantly.  Place egg yolk/milk mixture back in the pan.  

Using a strainer over pan, pour cilantro mixture into egg yolk/milk mixture.  Once combined, heat mixture to medium and continue stirring until mixture can coat the back of a spoon.  

Strain mixture into cold bowl resting in ice bath.  Continue stirring until mixture is cool.

Refrigerate mixture until completely cooled.  Place mixture into your ice-cream maker and follow instructions.

"It's All Greek to Me" - Tzatziki & Other Musings

“It’s all Greek to me,” muttered Sous Chef as he poured through the menu of a quaint taverna on the esplanade in Katakolon, Greece.  While he may have been joking in his inimitable fashion, we were indeed living the Mediterranean lifestyle for a few hours:  al fresco dining under a bright blue canopy, water lapping just behind our table, soft breezes carrying the aroma of grilled delicacies and the Mediterranean Sea, and an unobstructed view of our cruise ship in the background. 

The best Octopus we've ever had is on this table

Somehow the grilled octopus disappeared...

It’s been a few years since our first-ever cruise which took us through the Adriatic and Mediterranean Seas to visit, if briefly, such historic sites as Corfu, Mykonos, Athens and Katakolon.  The cruise ship ordeal was forgettable, and our last if Sous Chef has anything to say about it, but the culinary and cultural experiences of the Greek Isles were not and remain deeply entrenched in my cognitive and olfactory senses.  This week’s “French Fridays with Dorie” challenge roused those senses to the point I could almost smell and taste our meal at the taverna in Katakolon:  fresh grilled octopus, warm pita slathered with house made Tzatzaki, and chilled Greek white wine.  Opa!, the staff shouted in greeting when we arrived, and Opa!, we exclaimed when departing that most wonderful culinary adventure.

Stands the test of time

Mediterranean cooking is based on the straightforward use of the best and freshest local ingredients.  Simplicity and freshness are the name of the game, and nothing embodies these qualities better than the ubiquitous Tzatzaki which is intended as a condiment for all courses of a meal.  Versatile and refreshing, and perfect for the dog days of August, it can be used as dip with crudité or pita or as a sauce or accompaniment with chicken or lamb.  Dorie’s recipe is delicious and true to tradition, although she dices the cucumbers instead of shredding or grating them as some recipes instruct. 

   

I often dream of sitting here

One of my favorite ways to enjoy Tzatziki is on a pita, with sliced grilled chicken breast, juicy tomatoes, avocado, and red onion.  It is simple, it is fresh, and it can be enjoyed equally for lunch or dinner.  If you are taking a stay-cation this weekend, travel to Greece by renting “Shirley Valentine” or “Mama Mia, “ and mix up a batch of Tzatziki to nibble on through the movie.

Chicken Pita & Tzatziki

Serves 2

2 pieces of pita

2 grilled chicken breasts sliced into strips (a great way to use leftover chicken)

1 tomato sliced thinly

¼ cup diced red onion

½ avocado diced

½ cup Tzatziki

Warm the pita.  Spread a generous layer of Tzatziki over the pita.  Place two tomato slices on the Tzatziki and top with the sliced chicken breast.  Garnish with the red onion, avocado, and dollop of Tzatziki.

To read more Dorista’s experiences with Tzatziki go to “French Fridays with Dorie.”

Stark white architecture set off by a splash of color

A little "facelift" at the Acropolis

Emerald Green Water surrounds Corfu - James Bond forgot to pick me up

The French Paradox & Dieter's Tartine

Periodic makeovers are necessary for any diva.  A freshening of the wardrobe, make-up and hair—maybe even a little attitude adjustment-- is needed at least once a year, but preferably seasonally as the weather changes.  A diva cannot get stale; nor should her website.  So that is why Confessions of a Culinary Diva is getting a make-over.  My stylist is the talented Evy Hanson, owner of Leap Online Marketing , and she is helping me create a new and vibrant website that will embrace my varied interests.  Confessions of a Culinary Diva will have more lifestyle content as I share with you travel and restaurant recommendations and experiences, culinary and travel book and product reviews--trust me the  Vitamix is worth the money and I will tell you why-- fashion tips, and things to do if you find yourself in Southern California, particularly the Palm Springs area.  The new website should be up and running soon, but in the meantime let’s continue our culinary journey through Around My French Table by Dorie Greenspan.

”Diet” is a nasty four letter word that makes me cringe and conjures visions of unpalatable food, miniscule portions, and cardboard packaging.  While it is something I should be doing, a diet is a grim prospect for someone who adores cocktails, wine, cheese, bread, cream, and butter.  Imagine my surprise when this week’s “French Fridays with Dorie” challenge was “Dieter’s Tartine”.  Tartine and diet used in the same sentence – a bit of an oxymoron in this day and age when bread, gluten, wheat and just about anything we enjoy should be purged from our diets. 

This recipe falls into what I classify as the “no recipe needed recipe.”  Just grab a fresh loaf of French bread and a few fresh veggies to dice.  Slice the bread and grill or toast it.  Spread on some fromage blanc, crème’ fraiche’, sour cream, or cottage cheese.  And top with diced veggies–-cucumber and tomato are recommended--along with a sprinkling of herbs and chives.  You decide which veggies and toppings to use and, Voila!, lunch is served.

Whether on a diet or not, the Dieter’s Tartine is sublime.  Not only is it easy to make, you may delude yourself that this is actually a “diet” food Jenny Craig or Nutrisystem might endorse.  After all, fresh veggies are a main component to the toppings that are slathered onto a piece of grilled, crusty, country-style French bread.  Fortunately, the French have a sensible approach to “diet,” with moderation not elimination being the key element.  So I declare this French dish to be so salubrious that it must be accompanied by a glass of chilled, crisp, dry rose from Provence.  The French Paradox minus the cigarette should be observed to get the full effect of this “diet” food.

To learn what other Doristas think about the “Dieter’s Tartine,” visit French Fridays with Dorie.

The Bumbler & The Beast - Norwegian Wolffish

From my perspective, it was a matter of beauty and the beast, although the beast part was not readily apparent from its packaging and beauty is always subjective and sometimes fleeting.  From my sous chef’s perspective, it was a matter of the bumbler and the beast.

While rummaging for swordfish in the frozen foods section of Trader Joe’s, I came across one of those “special” TJ foods that often pique my curiosity.  You know the kind:  something totally unknown or, at best, vaguely familiar, but marketed by TJ to sound intriguing, adventuresome, and edible, if not delicious. 

Does anyone know a good dentist?

 Alas, TJ had no swordfish (which I could not believe since I normally wade through piles of it when looking for other fish), but it did have spotted Norwegian Wolffish (Anarchichas Minor) that, according to a TJ stockman serving that moment as an enlightened fishmonger, would be a good substitute.  The package he handed me had an appealing label that showed the Wolffish in profile (clearly its best viewpoint as the photos demonstrate) and identified it as having meat that was white and firm and a taste redolent of lobster, crab, and shellfish.  Plus it can be cooked in a number of ways:   baked, fried, grilled, poached, steamed or sautéed.  It all sounded good to me, so Norwegian Wolffish would stand-in for swordfish in this week’s “French Fridays with Dorie” cooking experience.       

 

Julia handled Monkfish much better than I do Wolffish

Not your average lap pet

According to TJ and other online sources, the Norwegian Wolffish is a sharp toothed, cold water fish whose flavor derives from its diet of shellfish, such as mussels, scallops, sea urchins, and crabs.  Norwegian Wolffish is known to reach lengths of up to 7 feet and weigh up to 40 pounds.  Their fang-like teeth are part of a rather stout head and large mouth, all the better to dislodge mollusks and crustaceans from their familial homes on the rocky bottoms of near freezing deep waters like the Barents Sea above Norway or to dismember the fingers of careless fisherman.  Despite its dental and facial shortcomings, the Anarchichas Minor variety is quite fashionable with leopard-like spots on its scale-less, silky-smooth skin.  Armed with two fillets of this beast, I strode from TJ’s determined to make a dish worthy of Dorie’s praise.

This week’s recipe from Around My French Table by Dorie Greenspan is very simple:  sautéed or grilled swordfish served with an herb salad tossed with a splendid Dijon vinaigrette.  This is something that can easily be whipped up after a long day at the office and gives the impression that you are eating light and healthy.  And for those who used swordfish or did not suffer a culinary brain cramp, it probably was all those things Dorie intended.

Looks can be deceiving 

Out of necessity, inquisitiveness, or downright contrariness, I often substitute ingredients, usually with good results.  But my experience with Norwegian Wolffish reminds that there are a number of universal cooking guidelines that should always be observed.  First, make sure that what you substitute does not compromise the integrity of the recipe.    Second, check cooking times and methods for the substitute since they may not be the same as for the original.  Third, when defrosting frozen fish, follow the instructions on the package.  If there are none, at least take it out of its original packaging, pat dry, place on a plate, cover with plastic wrap, and leave it in the refrigerator overnight.  Defrosting in the original packaging causes the fish to absorb lots of unwanted and likely unpleasant liquid.  Fourth, when you want fish to have a crispy skin, dry the skin first, cook in a hot pan, add the fish to the pan skin side down and, using a flexible spatula, press on the flesh until the fillet flattens out (this makes sure all the skin is in contact with the pan), and don’t flip back and forth, just let it cook on the skin side until the last couple of minutes when you can finish on the flesh side.   

Rafa is looking for a better recipe and instructions

I most certainly violated guidelines two, three and four.  Guideline Two:  Dorie’s recipe calls for a seven minute sauté whereas TJ’s recipe calls for twenty minutes baking in the oven.  I sautéed for seven minutes and it was not enough.  Guideline Three:  I defrosted overnight in the airtight packaging and the fish was swimming in liquid the next day.  Guideline Four:  I cooked the fish flesh side down for the most part.  The result was a tough, slimy, unpleasant looking skin, an undercooked fish with areas that looked and felt gelatinous, and none of the succulent flavors of lobster or other shellfish that I was craving.  Lesson learned and I will give the Norwegian Wolffish another try.  At least the salad was excellent.  

Kitchen Therapy - A Glass of Rose' & Savory Clafoutis

Gallup has recently confirmed what everyone knows:  70% of us don’t feel positively about our source of daily bread.  And by that they don’t mean our local bakers but our gig, our grind, our old 9-to-5.  The best thing about a vocation is a vacation, but an avocation can lead to many pleasurable hours and experiences.

As a culinary diva, food and beverages are my avocation, a status I would upgrade to vocation in a blink if I could thereby support sous chef and me.  That seems unlikely, however, so I pursue my passion in many ways:  restaurants, bars, wineries, farmers markets, food blogs, and the like.  Yet perhaps my favorite pursuit is cooking.  Not the sweaty, neurotic kind of cooking done in a restaurant or the frenzied kind of cooking for dinner parties or large groups.  But the serene, agreeable experience of trying new recipes or crafting old ones in clever and delectable ways, all in the comfort of one’s own kitchen.  What a great way to unwind after a day of drudgery—and it certainly does not hurt to have sous chef provide me with a glass of chilled French Rosé before the cooking begins (and refills as it proceeds). 

My sous chef and I love the challenge of using a favored dish as a platform for other dishes.  There is something about the inventive use of familiar fare that is fundamentally rewarding.  I would be pleased as punch to be known as the “MacGyver of the kitchen,” so I was thrilled that the sweet, luscious Cherry Clafoutis I wrote about in June can easily be turned into a savory delight.  I took the base recipe for Clafoutis, omitted the sugar, exchanged heirloom cherry tomatoes for the cherries, and added some fresh basil and cubed cheese to the mix.   The result was a Savory Clafoutis that can be served on its own as a first course, as a side to a brunch, or as a light lunch with an herb infused salad. 

The combinations and permutations for the little Clafoutis are seemingly endless.  Crave some pork fat:   just add bacon or pancetta.  Feeling Greek:  combine olives and feta with the tomatoes and garnish with some freshly diced cucumber and dill.  Fromage lover?  Go for it!  The base Clafoutis is the perfect canvas for mild to strong cheeses to shine.  Heck, why not have a Clafoutis party?  Fix up a batch of Clafoutis batter and let the guests add their own ingredients to make them sweet or savory.  

Savory Clafoutis

Batter:

4 eggs
¾ cup of sugar
Pinch of salt
Scant ½ cup ground almonds
2 Tbs all-purpose flour

7 Tbs creme fraiche (can substitute sour cream)
 7 Tbs Buttermilk (or regular milk)

Filling:

1 container Mini Heirloom  Tomatoes

1 cup diced cheese of your choice

2 spring onions diced

Chopped fresh herbs of your choice

Bread crumbs

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Butter and flour 6-8 ramekins or one 7 ½ by 4 inch baking dish or pan.  (I used bread crumbs that I had seasoned with garlic, black pepper and sea salt, in place of flour in the ramekins.)

Place tomatoes evenly across bottom of the prepared ramekins or dish.

Whisk the eggs with sugar and salt until pale yellow and thick. Sift and fold in the ground nuts and flour, then stir in the crème fraiche.   Add cheese, spring onions and freshly chopped herbs.  Make sure the ingredients are well mixed.

Pour or ladle the batter over the tomatoes, place the ramekins or dish on a baking tray, and bake for 30-40 minutes until golden brown.

Interested in reading more experiences with Cherry Clafoutis?  This week the Dorista's over at French Friday's with Dorie have a gaggle of experiences to read about.

Hemmingway, Daiquiris and Me

It’s summertime, and the living isn’t always so easy.  There are weddings, graduations, picnics, family reunions, and holidays.  To best negotiate these treacherous waters, one often needs an adult beverage or two.  Ernest Hemmingway may have had this is mind when he said “I drink to make other people more interesting.  [There are some who attribute the quote to George Jean Nathan, but there is no doubt Hemmingway said “An intelligent man is sometimes forced to be drunk to spend time with his fools.”]  While I never sanction drunkenness, public or otherwise, and advocate moderation in all things culinary and alcoholic, a sophisticated cocktail or two is not such a bad thing to help one get through a summertime ordeal.

Papa Hemmingway knew a thing or two about cocktails and a lot about surviving the summer heat.  So when I read about one of his go-to drinks from La Florida Bar in Havana, Cuba, the temptation was irresistible.  While there seems to be some confusion about the origins of the “Hemmingway Daiquiri,” this much is agreed.  It originated at La Florida Bar in the 1930s; it is not the same as a “Papa Doble,” the name given to Hemmingway’s version of La Florida’s standard daiquiri that resulted from his tasting the standard and saying he did not like sugar and it needed more rum; and the version below evolved over several years, as is evident from comparing the 1935 and 1939 editions of the La Florida Cocktail Book. 

Hemmingway’s affection for this cocktail makes sense.  It is adventuresome, bold, straightforward, refreshing, and easy to quaff.  And while not for the faint of heart, it is just perfect for the long, hot days of summer we have here in the Coachella Valley.  So make a Hemmingway Daiquiri, grab a copy of A Moveable Feast or The Sun Also Rises, and enjoy a summer’s afternoon in the pool or under an umbrella.  As Hemmingway so aptly said:  “Drinking is a way of ending the day.”

Hemmingway Daiquiri - from Vintage Cocktails by Assouline

Serves 1

1 oz. white rum

1/4 oz. Maraschino Liqueur (not Maraschino cherries - I prefer the Maraschino Liqueur by Luxardo)

1/2 oz grapefruit juice

3/4 oz simple syrup

3/4 oz fresh lime juice

Place all ingredients in cocktail shaker.  Shake all ingredients and strain into a small cocktail glass.